Hudson Reporter, 11-Sep-16
By Rory Pasquariello
Tourists flock to historic duel site in Weehawken because of hit play
They’ve come from across the land, from Manhattan to Seattle, to walk to a small historic monument in Weehawken’s bluffs overlooking the Hudson River.
Thanks to the success of the smash Broadway hit musical “Hamilton,” which received 11 Tony awards this year, more people than ever are interested in seeing the picturesque spot where Vice President Aaron Burr killed the former treasury secretary in a duel on July 11, 1804. The event occurred after years of simmering political differences and tensions between the two.
The frequent clashing of great minds took a much different form in the political arenas of early 19th-Century America than today, when having a great mind is no prerequisite to enter such an arena.
People around the world have become immensely interested in the life of Hamilton, one of the country’s founding fathers, thanks to the success of the musical that opened in August of 2015 and is – according to the Richard Rodgers Theater -- sold out through at least next June. (Tickets can be had for $450 on ticketing websites, or sometimes by camping out all night in Manhattan.)
New and old media organizations have increasingly paid homage to Hamilton’s legacy. Ron Chernow, the Pulitzer Prize-winning biographer and author of the biography from which the musical is based, has been all over the airwaves, as has Lin Manual Miranda, creator of the musical. It was one of only nine musicals ever to win the Pulitzer.
Attendance at historic sites in Paterson, Weehawken, and Morristown has jumped, but it’s the monument at the duel site that attracts the most attention, marking the sensational ending to a great American life. Hamilton actually died one day after the duel, in the home of his good friend William Bayard Jr. in New York.
Piqued interest
Every year, Weehawken Mayor Richard Turner attends the city’s annual Celebrate Hamilton event on July 11. “Each year it gets bigger and bigger,” he said. “The play has renewed interest in the area.” That renewed interest, Turner believes, encourages historical learning. “Hamilton is a great historical figure, and we often forget because most Americans aren’t dedicated students of history,” he said. “It’s nice to have something that comes along that reminds us of the great history we have.”
Lauren Sherman, chair of the Weehawken Historical Commission, said, “I’ve heard of people taking selfies at the monument and some girls crying. Because of the musical, he’s now cool.”
One group of young people with long selfie sticks posing in front of the monument last week were happy to share their thoughts on Hamilton’s legacy.
“He’s the father of modern banking,” said Jim Furman, who is from Manhattan but was visiting friends in Union City. “He’s legend.”
Hamilton is known as “the father of modern banking” because his most impactful contribution to this country was perhaps the establishment of a central bank, which he believed to be necessary to establish stable national credit and promote business. He was like the responsible parent who co-signs his daughter’s credit card just to ensure she goes out into the real world with good credit.
Amy Zhang, also from Manhattan, talked about her admiration for Lin Manuel Miranda. “He’s a genius,” she said. “I haven’t seen the play, but the soundtrack is amazing, and I love his character. It’s surreal to be standing here, at this rock where Hamilton laid his head down, shot.” According to Sherman, the tidbit about Hamilton’s head, explained on the plaque, was not added until the memorial was moved to the top of the ridge overlooking the Hudson in the late 1850s.
Memorial drew duelers
The original memorial was built in 1806 at a cost of $750 and consisted of various images along with a rock and a plaque.
But there was a problem.
“The memorial, instead of honoring the men, it started to draw more duelists,” Sherman said. Dueling was illegal in New York at the time, making the shore of Weehawken a prime location for such activity. But duels were outlawed in New Jersey in 1845.
Sherman said that the memorial started coming apart early on. “People were taking pieces of the monument with them. By 1821, there wasn’t much left other than this plaque with the engraving.”
She said after dueling was outlawed in New Jersey, people still came to the grounds to settle disputes by duel, using cork instead of bullets.
The views and the history
A retired history teacher from Seattle, Gordon Knight, was at the monument last week with his wife, Debby, taking in the views and the history. “It’s way down on a ledge, used to be surrounded by bush,” Gordon said, pointing to the original dueling grounds under the Palisade hills where Hamilton was fatally wounded.
Knight turned around to inspect a big rock behind him with the old sign indicating that Hamilton rested his head on that very rock after being shot. “I also like the plaque,” Knight said. “It’s remarkable.”
Gordon was enjoying the view of the Manhattan skyline as well.
“The size of Seattle is like one little section of Manhattan,” Debby said.
On any given day, and especially on weekends, tour buses from all over stop on the shoulder of Eastern Boulevard in Weehawken. Passengers pile out to stretch their legs and capture the extraordinary views of the Manhattan skyline from Hamilton Park. With a familiar eye and a very strong pair of binoculars, you can even spot where the play is performed near Times Square at the Richard Rodgers Theater on 46th Street.
The monument is located on Hamilton Avenue, just off of Boulevard East (otherwise known as John F. Kennedy Boulevard East). For those wanting to take public transportation, the monument is not far from the Hudson Bergen Light Rail stop at the Port Imperial ferry terminal in West New York, if you’re willing to walk to the steps up the Palisades. Several buses from New York City also coast along Boulevard East.
As for the Knights, they haven’t yet seen the musical.
“We can’t afford it,” Gordon laughed. “We saw ‘Wicked,’ but “Hamilton” tickets can go up to $3,000. I guess there’s super rich people who can afford it.”
The secretary of the treasury might have had something to say about that.
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